The Wedding Dress

The wedding dress has been a year in the making.  Becca asked me to make her wedding dress in January.  She brought me a picture for a place to start.  She is not a fluffy-frilly kind of girl so the dress has simple lines.  We re-designed things as we went.  It has been an educational and fun creative project.  I am learning that period sewing techniques are not that far off from modern couture.  I used Wild Ginger software to make the pattern.  The lace came heavily beaded and sequined.  It was beautifully elegant and the highlight of the dress.  Although I only spent a little over a month actually sewing, the dress has been on my mind almost constantly.  It has been mostly handsewn because I have learned that sometimes you have more control over where your needle goes in at if you stitch it by hand.  I have learned to love the creative process of hand sewing. 

The back closure of the dress is button loops with a zipper behind it.  I learned that a button loop closure is very weak and that most dresses made with a button closure are actually closed with a hidden zipper not to be confused with an invisable zipper which is also weak closure.  The last thing the bride needs on her wedding day is a wardrobe malfunction!  The buttons instead of being fabric covered were a shell looking shank button.  I have to admit that I did cheat on the button looping.  Maybe someday I will make a dress with fabric button loops but they made me nervous so I used a prepared tape with elasticized loops.  The back bodice comes to a point about hip level.  Initially, the front was to have the same point but when we got it finished, it just wasn't what the bride or her mother wanted so we changed it to a straight across the front with a slightly dropped waist.

The neckline is a sweetheart shaped with piping.  The sleeves are a satin cap sleeve with an elbow length lace overlay.  The lace overlay is continued in the skirt with the satin ending eight inches above the lace so that the lace detail really stands out. The skirt went through a few transitions as well, we started at tea length like the inspiration picture, then we tried floor length and then back to tea length.

The lining of the dress has been completely hand stitched.  The fabrics are an antique white bridal satin, a nylon beaded and sequined lace and a cotton lining. 

All photos of Becca were produced by Neil D. Johnson Photography .

The Yellow Rose of Texas

This project has taken a while.  I have learned quite a bit from it. The dress is one that I have made several times.  The cuffs on the under sleeves are embroidered.  The bonnet was all hand stitched and took me just over a week.  The purse or reticule has been embroidered by hand.  It also took just over a week.  I have not done satin stitch embroidery before.  I learned that you can really tell when you have done padding stitches under the satin layer and when you haven't.  The embroidery pattern is called the Tree of Life.  It is an authentic 18th century pattern.

The bonnet had some lessons as well.  The foundation of the bonnet is made with a stiff fabric called buckram.  The outside of the brim and the outside of the crown have had wire attached to make it malleable.  The foundation has been covered with cotton batting.  I did this so that the weave of the buckram would not show through the yellow cotton fabric.  If I make another bonnet like this one, I will run the wire around the outside of the brim then around the back.  The directions had me stop the wire at the front edge of the brim which gives a weak joint.  By running the wire from the front of the brim to the back of the crown, it will make this much stronger.  I also learned not to pull the covering too tight or it will make the buckram buckle.

The client that this is for plays the Yellow Rose of Texas for a historical group that performs at rodeos.  I did a little research on this character from history.  Here's an article that I found:  http://www.amaranthpublishing.com/yellow.htm I didn't really know that she was a real person from history. 

All in all, I am very please with the way this project has finished.

On a personal note, Mary is now in 5th grade and she really seams to be enjoying her teacher.  She has grown to just over 5 feet tall.  She makes dinner quite often.  She is good at broiling meat and making salad as well as making spaghetti.  She likes to experiment with new recipes.  She has made pizza, including the dough, pretzels, refrigerator cookies and a couple of kinds of candy.  Most things have turned out really well.  She is in the process of decorating for Halloween.

The love of reading

I started this post as a reply on a friend's blog and it grew beyond a reply, so here we go.

My father was not a reader but he understood the need for books. He bought the first set of encyclopedias the year I was born. He wanted a different set than what they had at the library, so he purchased the Book of Knowlege and World Book. In my school years he renewed the encyclopedias 3 times. We also had Bible encyclopedia, Animal and sets of reading books.  I'm sure the Grolier salesman thought my dad was an easy target.

Nighttime would find us reading in bed.  After lights out time,we would hide under the covers with a flashlight to finish. Mom would often tell us if we continued to read in such darkened conditions, we would need glasses.  She was right.  We all have needed to wear glasses but I think that it is more genetic than from reading in the dark.  Even after I left home, I would come for a visit and pick a book and drape myself in a chair and read.


My family tried several times to have a TV when I was younger. For some reason, weeks into ownership and the used, gifted TV always ceased to work.  I missed the landing on the moon and the watergate trials.  We read for knowledge and entertainment. I read Dr. Suess books to my little sisters until I could quote them in my sleep.

I was worried that my daughter wouldn't become a reader, but about a year ago, she discovered books. It warmed my heart when she exclaimed "Mom, I can see pictures in my head!"

Today, I have graduated from hard copy books to e-reader books. I love having a book with me all the time without the bulk of a book.  I love being able to pull out my i-pod and read whenever I am waiting for something.

Reading has helped me learn more about sewing, knitting, and all manner of handwork.  I have learned how to take apart small kitchen appliances.  I have assembled most of the furniture in my home.

My mother taught me reading comprehension at the same time she taught me sewing.  She would have me read the pattern guide and then tell her what it said to do.  I have learned that this is a skill that not everyone has and I am forever indebted to her for teaching it to me.

To read the post that prompted my response go here:  http://notmolly.wordpress.com/2012/04/09/booklove/  Elizabeth is a good and entertaining read.  I even read her sewing book from cover to cover before I used the information in my daily sewing pursuits.

I am Loved

I  miss Earl the most when my earthly burden seems too heavy to carry all by myself.  Today has been one of those days.  I get lots of support from my family but sometimes it is just not the same as having Earl physically with me.  I struggle for the correct words to say how I feel because I have such a strong testimony of eternal marriage.  Anyway, I digress.  Today I am feeling lonely, all alone in the world etc. (having a "pity party") then I received this inspirational e-mail:

 "You are never far from the sight of your Heavenly Father."


—President Boyd K. Packer, "Counsel to Youth", General Conference, Oct. 2011

Then this afternoon, I caught myself humming a song while I was working.  A primary song.  I didn't even know all of the words, I had to look them up

I feel my Savior's love  in all the world around me
His spirit warms my soul through everything I see

I feel my Savior's love its gentleness enfolds me
And when I kneelto pray, my heart is filled with peace.

I feel my Savior's love and know that he will bless me
I offer him my heart, my shepherd he will be

He knows I will follow him Give all my life to him
I feel my Savior's love, The love he freely gives me.

Childrens' Song Book # 74

I have been taught today.  I am loved.  I am never alone.  I do not carry my burden all by myself.  If I feel alone, it is because I am pulling away from my Heavenly Father.  He is always there, watching me, waiting for me to come to Him.  I am His daughter.  He loves me and I love Him.

Most recent men's outfit

This is an outfit that I have been working on since the beginning of November.  The trowsers are made from a fabric called kearsy cloth.  It has warp threads of linen and weft threads of wool. It looks like the fabric that the confederate civil war reenactors wear.  The trowsers are a drop fall front. 

The shirt is made of raw linen.  It has been made made from a Martha McCain Simplicity pattern.  It has been mostly hand stitched.  If I could see the stitching from the outside, I hand stitched it.  The buttonholes have been done by hand as well.

The vest is made from a Past Patterns pattern called "A Single-Breasted Shawl Collar Waistcoat" It has been made from wool flannel with a raw linen lining and back fabric.  There are welt pockets and hand stitched buttonholes. 

I am now on to some easier things for a couple of weeks and then I will be starting a wedding dress for a girl in my ward who also happens to be a distant relative on the side of the family that has all the sewing genes.  (Thank you great great grandma  Elizabeth Hocquard Carlisle).

I've been hacked!

My comcast.net e-mails and facebook account have been hacked this morning.  I am not in England.  I don't even have a passport to get out of the country.  I apologize if this has jeopardized any of your accounts.

Gray Wool Dress

This dress has been a long time in the making.  It is made of bluish gray lightweight wool with a blue cotton lining.  The trim is dark pink taffeta.  The collar and cuffs are hand embroidered.  The time period is around 1850.

Finally! An update

Okay, I finally decided I needed to update things.  Here are the pictures of the authentic projects that I have been working on.  First is the Frock Coat that I finally finished this last spring.  Then the red dress was for the LDS Church Museum.  That took a lot longer than I anticipated and I learned many things.  I always do.  The last one is my most recent project.  I have made this dress many times.  Most people have ordered it in blue.  I really like the print this client picked.  I am currently working on a gray wool dress that will be trimmed with pink silk (yes, real silk)taffeta.  Then I have a project of a full set of men's clothing made from linen and wool. Linen shirt, wool vest and Kersey trousers  Kersey is a wool and linen mix.  Trek business is slow so it is a perfect time to work on these more challenging projects.

On a personal note, Mary has grown so much. She grew 3 inches over the summer and is now 4'11". She is in 4th grade and is doing well.  It has taken her a couple of months to figure out how to focus and get her work done during class and now, for the most part she doesn't have much homework.  This is her first year of having a man teacher.  She was a little leary at first but she loves Mr. Downs.  He is an older teacher.  My sister who is 2 years younger than me had him for 5th grade his second year of teaching.  At Back To School Night he addressed the first man teacher issue becuase he has had that problem every year.  He told the kids not to worry, "it is a bit like spending the day with Dad."  He has a dry sense of humor that Mary loves.  He told me at her last SEP conference that she is one of the few that really gets his jokes.  I had to explain that her dad had the same dry sense of humor that she has so she totally understands.

In July, I had a mile marker birthday and turned 50.  I was a little down about it for a bit.  The last hard birthday I had was 30.  Mary was born just weeks after I turned 40 so I was completely immersed in becoming a mother and so 40 went by without much hooplah.  Now I've had a few months of being 50, I'm okay with it.  My body is old and I'm not getting around very well.  My knees and hips have decided they are tired.  I am having a hard time losing weight because I can't exercise enough to get my heart rate really moving.  So I do what I can and let it go with that.  I walk with 2 canes and Mary is a big help.  I told her that we needed to get a screw driver and the "T" to turn off the sprinklers.  Well, by the time I got myself out the door she had turned off the sprinklers all by herself.  She was so excited.

My father passed away in August.  He only felt poorly for a couple of weeks before.  He didn't have the patience to be sick for very long.  I had a good 2 hour visit with him the morning that he died.  We didn't know that it was going to be that day.  He was up and around.  His hometeacher was over to mow the lawn and dad was out supervising the job.  He came in the house about 4:00, told Mom he couldn't breathe and then passed out and was gone.  He has had a bad heart for years so I was okay with his passing.  I know that he is doing what he needs to do.  He had been a temple officiator for 12 years.  In that time he did 11,000 names.  That was the thing that was most proud of.  Being able to complete the work for so many people.  Many if not all of them were family names.

Mom started feeling poorly about 3 weeks after Dad died.  At first we thought that her blood pressure medicine wasn't doing the job completely.  Turns out she has lymphoma.  She has now had her first round of chemo.  She will have two more treatments, three weeks apart, then they will run the tests again to see if the tumor has shrunk.

Well, there you have it. 

Start at the center

Since Thanksgiving, I have been working on a tailored 1830's frock coat.  I thought that it would only take me about 3 weeks.  And it might have but there have been some steps that I have had to psych myself up for.  It has been my first heavy tailoring project.  For the most part I have enjoyed it.  I have learned a lot.  My mom suggested a book that is long out of print.  I found an almost new copy at Amazon.com.  I have followed it step by step.  Yesterday I completed the hand worked buttonholes.  The collar has been on for a week or so.  But I haven't liked the way the upper collar went on.  I have tried different things to fix it.  It still hasn't looked quite right.

I woke up this morning with this thought in my head "I need to take off the collar and work from the the center back to the front on each side."  I have heard this sewing rule several times but it is always so natural just work from one side to the other.  So I took off the upper collar this morning.  As I was re-pinning the collar back on I was thinking about starting at the center.  Then I started getting all philosophical.  It is not just in sewing that it is best to start in the center and work toward the edges.  In life if you want to make a change, you have to start by changing your heart.  The center.  So that is my lesson for the day.  Start at the center.

I will post pictures of the frock coat when I finally get it finished.

The Last Few Months....

..have gone by and I think about updating and then I think, but nothing has really happened.  So here is a shot at nothing.

I had knee surgery in October.  Just a scope, but I found out that knee replacements are definitely in my future.  They want me to work with what I have until I can't stand the pain any more.  The good news is that I have more movement in my right knee than I have had in years.  One of my problems is that I can sit for hours, but I should get up and move around every hour for about 10 minutes.  I just forget until it has been 3 hours and then I am all stiff.  Getting old is highly overrated.

Mary was Dorothy for Halloween.  Of course I didn't get any pictures.  I am so bad at remembering to get out the camera.  I bought a small camera because I thought I would get it out more often.  Well it got lost at the family reunion.  So I only have the big Rebel camera of Earl's.  I have learned a few things about getting a good picture, but it is so big.  But I digress. Mary had a great time being Dorothy.  She helped me figure out how to make her costume.  That is a tradition that we have.  I have always made her costumes and she loves dressing up all year long so they are well used.

Yesterday we had Family Thanksgiving with Grandma Hymas.  One of the activities that was suggested was to make gingerbread cookies.  Mom used to make them every Christmas and we would decorate them, put them in baggies tied with a twist tie, then use the twist tie and a means to hang the cookies on the tree.  The grand kids love the gingerbread and we figured out last night that the last time we decorated cookies for Thanksgiving was years ago when we all went to my brother's house in St George.  That was before I met Earl, so it was at least 12 years ago.  Those who stayed and made cookies had a great time.  Each person cut and decorated a full tray of cookies to take home.  Mary had so much fun.  She loves creative things.

Mary is doing well at school.  She has discovered Beverly Cleary.  Specifically Ramona Quimby.  She has asked for the whole Cleary library for Christmas.  She has all the Ramona books, so I am working on the Henry Huggins and Ralph the mouse books. Reading has really clicked for her this year.  I am so happy.  I learned to love reading as a child.  For many years we did not have a TV in our home.  Reading filled the time that most kids spent watching TV.  I am really glad that Mary has learned that reading is an enjoyable way to pass the time especially since if you don't know how to read, the rest of life is more difficult.  I'm hoping that at some point, she will pick up math as well.  For right now she is content to figure out equations each time she encounters them.  It won't be that easy once she starts on multiplication.  I had a hard time with multiplication as well so I hope that she eventually gets it.  I did.  I'm still no whiz at math but I can do anything that doesn't require algebra.

Mary has joined a local swim team so she swims with the team 3 days a week.  She is in the non-competitive group for right now so she mostly is practicing strokes and working at swimming 100 yards at a time.  On the other 3 days, she goes with me and she plays in the water and swims while I walk in the water.  The physical therapist suggested that exercising in the water will really help my knees.  It really helps that Mary loves the water so I don't get a chance to rationalize any excuses for not going.

We have a dog named Ben and a cat that mostly gets called Stupid Cat.  I have discovered something the last few days about these two.  When we are around Ben tries really hard to get the cat who stays just out of his reach.  If Ben can get the cat, we usually have to take the cat away from him.  The cat doesn't usually have life threatening damage but I don't really want to have a dead cat on my hands.  When they don't know that someone is watching, they are friends.  For instance, this morning Ben was laying on the icy driveway.  The cat was rubbing up against him like cats do.  Ben was allowing it until he saw that I was watching. (at least 5 minutes).  Then he snapped at the cat.  They just make me laugh.  I'm sure that by the end of this cold winter, they might be sleeping in the same pen.

We survived the blizzard warning on Tuesday.  It was an adventure that, in the end, wasn't too bad.  It was cold and the wind blew around in circles.  The power didn't go out and I didn't have to drive it so all was good.  It has been in the single digits temperature wise but we are good.  We have some friends in the ward who ask every week if they can help me out with anything.  So Wednesday morning I called and asked if they could come shovel my driveway.  No hesitation at all.  They said "sure we can do that for you."  Now mind you, I was speaking to the teenage boys and not their parents. I have complete faith in the next generation.  There are enough of them  that are good that the world will be okay in their hands.

And Mary turns 9 years old

Mary will be nine in 2 more days.  This year to celebrate her birthday, she wanted to go to a hotel (one of her most favorite things to do) invite a couple of friends and have a sleep over.  She also wanted it to be in Salt Lake with Salt Lake friends.  She has been so excited for this.  We finally got to the hotel at 7:00 on Friday.  That was 4 hours later than what we wanted it to be.  She wanted to check in as soon as they would let us.  But of course, I had some work I had to get done.  We ran late but finally the fun started.  We went swimming, ate pizza, watched Grease, polished fingernails and toenails.  Some wanted to go to sleep.  Some wanted to stay up.  Finally at 3:00 everyone was sleeping.  Then we had to get up at 8:00 that turned into 9:00.  Ate free hotel breakfast, went swimming.  Got to friends soccor game late. They won while we were driving around looking for the field. Hung out with same two friends until afternoon.  Went to cousins house to play and visit some more. Left way late and got home even later Saturday night.  Skipped church because we were so tired.  Still not quite caught up on sleep. But we had a lot of fun!

I should have pictures.  I took a camera and forgot to take pictures.  Earl left me a great camera that I barely know how to use.  I bought a smaller camera that fits in my pocket.  It has been lost.  Haven't seen it since the family reunion.  I have a camera on my phone.  I forget that it is there.  I have no pictures.

Pioneer Designs is Featured in The Salt Lake Tribune

http://www.sltrib.com/sltrib/home/49976601-76/pioneer-authentic-gillmore-trek.html.csp


I'm not complaining about the free advertising!  Besides Mary loves to have her picture in the newspaper.

Men and Women

I should be sewing. I have this need to be on my soap-box for a minute. I have been listening to BYU TV today. Today I have been thinking a lot about marriage, the women's movement, equal rights and men.

In today's society it seems to be okay to make men our whipping boys. It seems that whatever the problem, we can blame it on the men of the world. Women make fun of men that if the tables were turned, we women would really be screaming. It is not fair. It is not Christ-like. It is not lady-like. The women's movement has progressed or digressed to the point that we are no longer willing to be equal to men. We want to be better than them. And not in a good way.

Right after we were married, Earl showed me an article that he had read in a waiting room. It was just about this subject and what we women have become. The writer of the article was playing tennis with her husband and 3 other couples. At one point they took a break between games. They all met together at the far end of the courts to relax a bit and get some water. Her husband brought her some water. The other wives commented on how well trained he was. When it came time to play again they decided to switch courts and opponents. She discovered that she had left her racquet at the far court so she ran over to get it, at which time she found that her husband had also left his racquet on the same bench. She picked it up and carried it back to where her husband and their friends were waiting. When she arrived, the other wives jumped on her. She didn't need to be her husbands "pack and carry" "He could have gotten his own racquet" etc. It did not take that much extra energy to carry his racquet along with her own. If the other racquet would have been one of her girl friend's instead of her husband's she would have carried it back to the group and no one would have had any negative thoughts whatsoever.

There are times when I think about arguments and disagreements that Earl and I had. I was so petty. Almost to the ridiculous. I catch myself saying to myself now "Earl you were so right." When you lose your spouse, it gives you a whole new perspective on eternal marriage. I hope that this life wasn't my opportunity to become my part of our eternal relationship. I hope that when we meet again in the hereafter, that we get to keep growing and progressing.

Mary's #1 Dad

Download Meggie Sorensen - Mary's 1 Dad

This is a song written by a cute friend of ours. She has a special relationship with Earl. I love to listen to it. I have so many images in my mind of Earl when I hear her words.

Wow does time fly!

I can't believe that it has been February since I've updated! Life has been crazy for us. Mary is now out of school. She was so excited that she passed her end of level testing and gets to move on to 3rd grade. She really stressed about that. She begged me not to sign her up for the school's summer fun program or summer school. We discussed that I have to work every day, and the summer programs were a way to keep her from getting bored. So she has promised that she will not whine that she is bored while I am trying to work. I know that's like believing in a fairy tale but I decided not to waste my money and effort trying to get her up and over to the school every day when she doesn't want to. On the other had she begged for swimming lessons so I have signed her up for 4 weeks of swimming throughout the summer.

The business is really busy right now because this is the season for pioneers, whether it is trek or other programs we have lots of clothing to make. It keeps my mom and me busy. We are almost crazy we are so busy.

The shipping deadlines are about 3 hours earlier in Cache Valley than Salt Lake. We have only had to make 2 quick trips to Salt Lake because we have missed the shipping deadline here.

Sorry this is so scattered. I just thought I would do a quick update so that you all wouldn't think that we had fallen off the face of the earth or something.

Feb 3, Daddy Day

Today marks one year since Earl passed away. It as been a good day. Mary and I spent the whole day together. I have decided that Mary won't ever have to go to school on February 3. She went to school the day that he died. That should earn her the privilege of taking the rest of them off.

The day started out with a giggle. I was already awake when Mary woke up. She still can not sleep in her own bed. She looks up at me and says "Happy Daddy Day" That set the tone for the rest of the day. We have looked at pictures, worked on a scrap book for him (thank you April Clausen), ate Earl's favorite foods, talked about him and just remembered all the fun things about him. It has truly been a sweet day.

For us, February 3 will forever be known as Daddy Day.

New Vest and shirt finished

This project has taken a couple of months to put together because I have been working on other things as well. I made the client a pair of brown wool trousers as well. I just forgot to take a picture of them before I shipped them.

Merry Christmas

First Christmas without Earl. We made it. Just another time for missing the things that Earl did not just that we miss him in body. Earl always did Santa. Not just in public for parties, but for Mary as well. He was the keeper of presents because I am not good at keeping them hidden. I would buy things throughout the year and they would disappear almost as soon as we got home. He would never tell me that he had put them away. He just did it. Then they would re-appear Christmas morning.

Mary received 2 American Girl dolls. She had asked for one and then someone gave me money for Mary for Christmas. I guess I should have not been so frivolous as to buy 2 expensive dolls for the same Christmas but I have watched Mary play with dolls. She gives each one an identity. Each one has their own personalities. I just thought that 2 would be more fun than one and we have been missing Earl so much. I just needed to spoil her a little more. Now I am making American Girl doll clothing so that she has more than one outfit. I just can't pay $22+ for doll clothes.

We missed not doing Santa Claus. It is so hard to do a Christmas Party with Claus family and not have Santa. The Christmas Season hasn't been near as hectic, but it hasn't been near as fun either.

Mary got to play Mary for the Primary Nativity. She cared for that baby doll as if it were a real child. We have had a chance to focus on Christ this year from making a Nativity together at Super Saturday to Mary reading Luke 2 all by herself on Christmas Eve.

First Christmas back in Lewiston. I had forgotten how truly cold it gets here. Right now it is 12:15 pm and 5 degrees! Brrr! We spent a good part of the day at my parents home.

I am really trying to get my house put together. We moved in April and it still looks like we are just moving in, or maybe we are moving out. Who can tell? I have been sorting through boxes of paper and all kinds of stuff. Throwing out a lot. My sister comes over a couple of times a week to help me carry out the garbage. I almost have my big living room looking like it is actually lived in instead of being a warehouse.

Another one of thoses things that Earl did was the housework. I am terrible at it. I would rather do almost anything than wash dishes. My laundry stacks up. Mary's room always needs picking up. And right now because I'm working through the boxes in the living room, it is looking worse instead of better. What I need is a schedule. Like the old dish towels. You know Laundry on Monday, Kitchen on Tuesday, whatever it was.

Now I'm off to take Mary for a late lunch. Merry Christmas everyone!

I have a new calling in my Ward

I am happy to announce that I will be serving in the Nursery in my ward. I love Nursery. I sort of knew it was coming because I was talking to one of the Primary Presidency the other night at the Christmas party. She asked me if I would be willing to sub for Nursery and I told her that I love Nursery. Her husband is in the Bishopric. I will be doing the lesson and the music for them. I love it!

Dress is finished

The dress I have been working on for most of the month is finally complete with the exception of the hem that I will be measuring for next week. This one has been a fun learning experience. I recently read a book called "The Dressmaker's Guide" I was able to apply lots of the information from the book into making this dress. I really learned a lot.

Now I get to make a men's outfit. Button Fly wool pants and a very fancy waistcoat (vest). I love sewing for the museum because I learn so much.